Friday, May 21, 2010

The Wonders of Bait Fish


Sardines, Mackerel, Anchovies. Why are these little fish so full of flavor? We have been using little bait fish since we opened. Up until the last month, we have been using a pre-cured product that we get from a local distributor. But lately, we have explored into the realm of handling the curing task our selves.

Start with a gutted, scaled fish. Head on or off, doesn't matter. In the case of Mackerel I like to fillet them, this can easily be done with the head left on. For Sardines my technique is a little different and I think it is best to take the head off... It also must be noted that the bones in these small fish are perfectly fine to eat. They get a little chokey (I made that word up) but they will not kill you. Bone in, is the European way. For my customers, we fillet them. More enjoyment, easier to eat, less mess... all the things you expect when you are paying to have a meal at a restaurant right?

So, back to the topic. Once you have clean fillets you want to lay them, skin side down, in an even layer across a shallow pan (Pyrex glass would work great). Next take kosher salt (we use Morton's at the restaurant) and evenly sprinkle salt over the fillets. Season them a little heavier than you normally would if you were going to pick it up and eat it direct (if that makes sense) Lay plastic wrap tightly over the top of the fillets to minimize air exposure. Then place them in the fridge over night.

Over night the salt works its miracles. In about 12-16 hours depending on the thickness of the fillets they will be fully cured. Next step is to flush them with cold water and place them on a paper towel to dry. They should be noticeably firmer than the day you cleaned them and for this, easier to work with.

At this point, with cured, rinsed, dry fillets; you are the chef. Submerge these cured fillets in a decent olive oil seasoned with your favorite herbs, sliced garlic, champagne vinegar, shallots... Whatever goes into that oil is what the fish will be scented with. If you used the right amount of salt for the cure, the oil doesn't need to be seasoned, the fish bring the salt with them to the party. These will keep in the fridge for up to 4 weeks in an air tight container (probably longer, we go through them so fast at the restaurant I can't say how long for sure, but they are preserved). Oh, and don't throw that oil away. That stuff is gold for dipping toasted bread into, drizzled over a nice fresh pasta, in salad dressings and sauces, with another piece of fish or with steamed local mussels... you get the point.

Pictured Above: Roots Farms' Butter Lettuce Hearts with Smoked Mackerel, Lardo, & Champagne Viniegrette

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