Halibut; The New Chicken of the Sea

Has halibut become my chicken dish? In a word, yes. We don't serve chicken at the restaurant. It's too safe. I want people to take chances on flavors and textures that they have not experienced before. But halibut has become my chicken.

We serve California Halibut. It is caught by local boats out of the Santa Barbara Harbor. The fish that we get are so fresh that frequently, we cannot serve them because they are too fresh. That's right, too fresh. Halibut is a fish that needs to be rested for at least 24 hours after it dies. Rigamortis takes it's toll after death. Combine that with the searing heat of the sautee pan and the proteins tighten to the point that it curls like monk fish and chews like gum. It's impossible to get a good sear and it's a total pain in the ass to work with. Also, the tendency by the guest is to assume it is over cooked. But after much R & D on un-rested halibut, I can say, with confidence, that range of cooking temps does not help this condition.

It seems to be the apparent "safe" choice on the menu. At first we thought it was because it was the only fin fish we serve. Abalone being the other seafood option (abalone is a post of it's own). But after the last couple weeks of decent fishing conditions, changing water temps and the opening of the commercial rock fish season, we have started to see some other fin fish coming in. For what ever reason, they don't sell like the halibut.

The good news: This is super local, fresh fish. Halibut is more or less a blank slate and goes well with almost everything. Halibut and Pork love each other (frankly because the fish needs the fat). So, I guess in the end I will continue to serve it. There is a certain amount of this business that is just about giving the people what they want. I refuse to give them chicken. So, Halibut it is.

The Wonders of Bait Fish

Sardines, Mackerel, Anchovies. Why are these little fish so full of flavor? We have been using little bait fish since we opened. Up until the last month, we have been using a pre-cured product that we get from a local distributor. But lately, we have explored into the realm of handling the curing task our selves.

Start with a gutted, scaled fish. Head on or off, doesn't matter. In the case of Mackerel I like to fillet them, this can easily be done with the head left on. For Sardines my technique is a little different and I think it is best to take the head off... It also must be noted that the bones in these small fish are perfectly fine to eat. They get a little chokey (I made that word up) but they will not kill you. Bone in, is the European way. For my customers, we fillet them. More enjoyment, easier to eat, less mess... all the things you expect when you are paying to have a meal at a restaurant right?

So, back to the topic. Once you have clean fillets you want to lay them, skin side down, in an even layer across a shallow pan (Pyrex glass would work great). Next take kosher salt (we use Morton's at the restaurant) and evenly sprinkle salt over the fillets. Season them a little heavier than you normally would if you were going to pick it up and eat it direct (if that makes sense) Lay plastic wrap tightly over the top of the fillets to minimize air exposure. Then place them in the fridge over night.

Over night the salt works its miracles. In about 12-16 hours depending on the thickness of the fillets they will be fully cured. Next step is to flush them with cold water and place them on a paper towel to dry. They should be noticeably firmer than the day you cleaned them and for this, easier to work with.

At this point, with cured, rinsed, dry fillets; you are the chef. Submerge these cured fillets in a decent olive oil seasoned with your favorite herbs, sliced garlic, champagne vinegar, shallots... Whatever goes into that oil is what the fish will be scented with. If you used the right amount of salt for the cure, the oil doesn't need to be seasoned, the fish bring the salt with them to the party. These will keep in the fridge for up to 4 weeks in an air tight container (probably longer, we go through them so fast at the restaurant I can't say how long for sure, but they are preserved). Oh, and don't throw that oil away. That stuff is gold for dipping toasted bread into, drizzled over a nice fresh pasta, in salad dressings and sauces, with another piece of fish or with steamed local mussels... you get the point.

Pictured Above: Roots Farms' Butter Lettuce Hearts with Smoked Mackerel, Lardo, & Champagne Viniegrette

Niman Ranch Pig

This week we received our 2nd Niman Pig. 110 lbs, split right down the center. Whole animals are so much fun to work with. They really allow for total control over the finished product. In addition to custom butchery (which although time consuming allows for some pretty cool things like the cowboy pork rack pictured), they are a great source for endless possibilities in the world of charcuterie. This says nothing to the sustainability of utilizing ONE animal to feed a week's worth of guests as apposed to ordering a case of ________ (<---insert protein here)... where many animals were processed to put enough _______ in the box to call it a case. Again, much more time consuming, but worth the work. It is a love affair.

This week's love affair ended up being much more charcuterie than usual. This must mean that the word is finally out about the charcuterie program at Julienne. Today's work included: Coppa, Buffalo Bresaola, Lonza, Chorizo, Italian Sausage, Guanciale, Braised Pork Belly, Pate with a Tenderloin Inlay, and Mortadella (which has to be re-done. My wife had a successful attempt once before and tried to tackle it again today. But, while multi tasking our staff meal for the crew she broke the emulsion. She's a hell of a women. She took it like a champ. It is never the lost product that is up-setting, it's the 45 minutes it takes to execute the damn recipe).

Next weeks whole animal; California Lamb. Stay Tuned.

Julienne Blog Is Born

Welcome to the Julienne blog. A place for current information related to special events, recipes, cooking classes and all other things food & wine related at Restaurant Julienne. We will do our best to keep this blog as up to date as possible so stay tuned!